Essentially, Paris in November is the same for us every year: Paris Photo, the satellite exhibitions, a considerable amount of baguette with cheese, and in between: walking. A lot of walking. Of course, we also catch up with friends each year, meet new people, and fall in love with photography all over again.
Since last year, we’ve been taking the TGV directly from Stuttgart to Paris, which makes the whole affair much more comfortable. We always stay at the same hotel, too – just below the 13th Arr., and we can take the M7 metro directly from the heart of Paris to the hotel. Depending on where we are, it takes between half and three-quarters of an hour, but once you’re seated, it doesn’t really matter. I no longer make the rookie mistake of taking nice shoes. It’s trainers now, specifically the most comfortable pair in the cupboard. That’s how you survive five consecutive days of walking.
I’ve included a map below showing our approximate routes. However, I might go into a bit more detail about the highlights. The salted butter from Thomas Artisan Fromager is hardly an insider tip anymore, but it’s genuinely the first thing we buy – and it accompanies us culinarily right until the end (our hotel room has a small kitchen). For me, Paris is slowly taking on that specific flavour – and somehow, I need it now to feel like I’ve truly arrived. Those little crispy salt crystals in that very sweet-tasting butter, spread on a traditional baguette – that is the taste of Paris.
A new discovery for us was the Galerie Rouge – it hadn’t been on our radar before, and the exhibition was so beautiful that we bought the book straight away. Sandra Eleta is a captivating storyteller, and carrying that heavy book all around Paris for the rest of the day was absolutely worth it!
The MEP – the European House of Photography – lured us in this time with an Edward Weston exhibition. We had tickets for 11 am, right at opening, so we could see the exhibition before it became too crowded to walk through properly. Engaging with the Group f/64 is essential. As is exploring Pictorialism.
Afterwards, we went to La Bal. Honestly, I was desperate to go back because the little café is so wonderful. We got rather comfortably stuck there last year, as they also have excellent wine. This time, we went for lunch and visited the exhibition afterwards. Last year, it featured the Japanese Bauhaus artist (I wrote about that, of course), and this year it was Donna Gottschalk and her circle. Their political alliance aims to elevate suppressed narratives – particularly those of LGBT+ and Black people – into the cultural memory. Through this solidarity, they create a collective archive of resistance and demand social change.
As every year, we also stopped by Polycopies. That ship on the Seine, a small book fair with tiny publishers. The quality is astonishing, which you don’t always expect from small, self-publishing outfits. Absolutely high-quality and brilliant book projects are presented here – all connected to photography, of course. Edgr Martins, shortlisted for the Paris Photo-Aperture Photobook Award 2025 was my Favorite! We already had one heavy book, so we loaded ourselves up with even more, afterwards wobbling towards the Eiffel Tower like little over-laden pack mules. Because that was my final stop for the day: I wanted to see it sparkle after sunset. Which it then did. The rest was red wine.
The next day, C.-P., the hangover, and I went to Paris Photo – as always, we bought tickets for early entry. After 2 pm, you can no longer walk there; you can’t even push your way forward. But if you stumble into the hall as one of the first, it’s wonderful. This year, however, I didn’t find it as… well, good as in previous years. The exhibitions surrounding Paris Photo have increased in quality, quantity, and approachability. The main centre has now attracted so many satellites that the original star has lost some of its radiance. That’s perhaps just my opinion, but this is my blog, so I’ll write what I want anyway. If you’ve read this far, you’re welcome to pop round and collect a biscuit.
The Leica Gallery afterwards, then a bookshop that only sells English books and serves English tea with milk, and finally a gallery we didn’t know before: Matthieu Richard. The exhibition here was brilliant: georges joniaux salmovka.
The finale, and truly the best part of Paris for us, was the „Light & Silver“ vernissage with wet plate and other wonderful handmade works at the Galerie Le Bonheur. Ana was participating again, and her work has become more delicate. It really resonated with me; the theme was – at least, this is how I understood it – the ageing of women, societal pressure, and the invisibility that suddenly hits you. I feel that.
Here we met Axel Schneegass – from Leipzig. And guess who we’ll be visiting in the foreseeable future? A very strange and very pretty young man came into the shop like a model, I photographed him (included below, you’ll immediately see who I mean), and when he eventually becomes famous as Paris’s most renowned stylist, he will hopefully remember me and the chain I gave him.
Our Paris Itinerary: A Map of Highlights
Museums & History
- Musée Carnavalet – Histoire de Paris: Explored the history of Paris. Enjoyed an espresso in the lovely Café Joli in the green inner courtyard.
Galleries
- Galerie David Guiraud: Visited the gallery run by Johannes Faber from Vienna.
- Galerie Rouge: A fantastic discovery with a beautiful exhibition by Sandra Eleta.
- Le Bal: Excellent exhibitions, but the real draw is the wonderful café. A perfect spot for lunch or a coffee.
- Exhibition: Donna Gottschalk, Helene Giannecchini, and Carla Williams – „Nous Autres“.
- MEP (European House of Photography): Saw the compelling Edward Weston exhibition.
- Leica Gallery: A must-visit for any photography enthusiast.
- Exhibition: Edouard Elias & Thomas Hoepker – showcasing the masters who shaped photojournalism.
- Galerie Matthieu Richard: A brilliant new discovery for us.
- Exhibition: georges joniaux salmovka.
Food & Drink
- Fromagerie Thomas Artisan Fromager: Our first and most essential stop for their legendary salted butter.
- Fratelli Marais: A great spot for lunch in the Marais district.
- The WHSmith Cafe: Inside the English bookshop; the fastest way to the UK for a proper cup of black tea with milk.
- H.a.u.t.: A perfect place for a glass of wine.
- Café at Le Bal: As mentioned, highly recommended for food and drink.
- Café on the Deck at Polycopies: The perfect place for a glass of wine while browsing books.
Bookshops & Fairs
- Polycopies: The incredible independent photobook fair on a boat on the Seine.
- Find of the Week: Edgr Martins, shortlisted for the Paris Photo-Aperture Photobook Award 2025.
Special Moments & Events
Vernissage at Galerie Le Bonheur: The „Light & Silver“ opening with wet plate photography.
Eiffel Tower at Sunset: Walked along the Seine after sunset to see the tower illuminated and sparkle on the hour.
Paris Photo: The main art fair. Pro-tip: get an early-access ticket to avoid the intense crowds later in the day.
